Haute Joaillerie 2011:Preciously Bejeweled

Jewelry is probably the oldest form 

of currency as well the ultimate symbol of fortune and social status. In some countries, like India, jewels and diamonds are still considered as wealth that can be easily transported and exchanged.

 For a few seasons now, during January’s Haute Couture three-day week, a fourth day has been added to celebrate the prestigious jewelers of the Place Vendôme. Except for Cartier, which prefers to present its collection separately, Boucheron, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mellerio Dits Meller, Chanel Joaillerie and Dior Joaillerie, compete to present unique high-jewelry pieces, artworks that can only be seen on rare occasions such as the Oscars or at royal ceremonies.

The value of these exceptional jewels depends on the uniqueness of the gems, their size and the quality of the cut: other than the classic diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald, other stones are now in high demand, like amethyst, peridot, tourmaline, tsavorite, lapis-lazuli, rubellite, precious moonstone, spinel, and citrine, among others.

Apart from the glistening quality of the stones, what mostly distinguishes Haute Joaillerie is each house’s own setting techniques, the minuteness of the craftsmanship, this special invisible metal ‘embroidery’ that holds the stones together.  The sophistication and originality of a design constantly challenges the limits of what can be possibly achieved with precious materials in miniature.

Boucheron followed the French tradition of figurative jewelry. The house presented six mini collections entitled: ‘Aquatic Waves’, as  ‘Exotic Parade’, ‘Playful Nature’, ‘Tales and Legends’, ‘Wings of Desire’ ‘Bewitching Snakes’, which are an exploration of the natural world. Sea or mythical creatures, jungle animals, amphibians and reptiles…an exceptional feat of skill. and

Van Cleef & Arpels has been influenced by Haute Couture and fabric since the 30’s: pompons, ribbons, embroidery and magic zip jewelry are common designs. The house’s Art Deco inspiration can be seen in its zip necklaces, harmoniously combining lapis-lazuli, turquoise or pearls, as they can be worn in different ways, zipped up tight or loosened and worn long.

Chanel remains faithful to its history of sober clothes adorned with flamboyant jewels as the famous 1930’s Maltese cross cuffs made by Fulco di Verdura. This new collection has Byzantine and Oriental influences: mixing gold with multi-colored stones, white diamonds and pearls, while celebrating opulence and splendor.

Dior’s symbolic rose, which celebrates female beauty and love, remains one of the house’s recurring jewelry themes: a figurative interpretation of the prettiest of flowers.